Saturday, December 26th, 2009
Special meetings are upon us now. Last week we spent a few days working on visas for Benin, Togo and Nigeria, the last being the most memorable. I have heard many stories about Nigeria but this was my first experience. When we arrived at the Embassy we were given a form to fill out but were told we needed four copies. When there was no sign of him giving us three more copies Kaarina went on a trek to find a photocopier, returning 20 minutes later. After waiting 2 hours for the interviewer to arrive we were called for a 2 minute interview where we were told off for not stapling our photos to the form. WE were wasting HIS time! We got the visa. Welcome to Nigeria.
The border crossing went very smoothly. After the rough reception at the Nigerian Embassy I expected nothing less when we arrived in the country. I was warned about numerous police checks after crossing the border but our passports stayed safe in our pockets as armed and uniformed men waved us through some 20 stops on the way to Lagos. We decided that our taxi man had connections because this was not normal. He had put a shiny leather bag in the trunk just as we were leaving. At first we protested but maybe it was the shiny leather bag that sped up our journey.
Lagos is the most populous city of all Africa with some 20 million people sharing 300 square kilometers. As we entered the outskirts I was awed at the crowds of people milling on the side of the roads. The congested highways are full of dilapidated yellow buses packed full of people. A metal bar cuts into the ribs of the people standing at the door, the only thing to keep them from falling out. Often there's only a foot of space between vehicles and motorbikes speed through, their handlebars bent in so they can navigate the narrow spaces. Although things have quietened down for the holiday period there is still a definate hyperactivity that grips this city.
I am staying with the Amangala's on the outskirts of the city. Yesterday they hosted a meal for us visitors and a number of young friends home from university for the holidays. The daughter of the home laughed at me as a waft of hot pepper coming from her pot made me cough. The sauce made here has a different taste than in Benin. Similar to some tastes that come from the West Indies.
The electricity is off more than it is on. A big generator chugs away most of the day to provide this comfortable home with power. Otherwise beads of sweat drip down our temples as we visit. In the north water is often cut as well. It seems that the hardships in this country surpass what we know in Benin.
Yet this country is far more developed than Benin. Oil has brought foreign money into the country. Beside the crumpled minibuses men in tailored suits drive shiny SUVs. Fastfood restaurants are more common here although MacDonald's hasn't arrived. When I arrived in Benin I was told that I would likely not see a mall during my stay here. Today some of the young friends took me to Victoria Island's secret, a big airconditioned shopping mall. Packed full of people dressed to impress. It even had a coffee shop!!
Now we are preparing for the meetings tomorrow. It looks like some 50 people could fit into the yard where it will be held. It has been such a pleasure to be immersed in English, albeit hard to understand and mixed with Pidgen. Nigeria has a reputation for corruption, kidnappings, and being overpopulated among other things but my experience has betrayed that reputation and left me with a smile.
Next stop: Togo. Until then. Alize
12.26.2009
Niigeria
12.07.2009
Ninth Impressions
Our days in Parakou are coming to a close. At this time next week we
will be in Cotonou with Rosanne and Carole at the Godomey bach just
west of Cotonou. Kaarina and I have been invited to Lagos, Nigeria for
the December 27 special meeting before continuing with the Togo and
Benin specials. We will spend next week working on visas for Nigeria
and Togo, and I will also renew my Benin visa.
Our missions here are ending for now with two steady listeners among a
number of others that come. These two haven't yet been mentioned.
Kaarina took a fan to be repaired at a roadside shack and found the
young man diligently reading his Bible. She invited him to the Friday
meetings and he has come regularly to more than half our mission.
On Sundays Viviane, who is engaged to one of our young friends, has
come regularly. We all had lunch together today, sour corn porridge,
fried river carp (head and all) and a hot tomato and onion sauce to
help it down. She found out a while back that I haven't driven a
motorbike yet and offered a lesson while we were waiting for the food.
I considered the chance of her not coming to another meeting if I
crashed her bike but she was keen, so off we went buzzing over bumps
and through sandpits. The things you do when you're in Africa!
On Wednesday we had our last meeting under the mango tree. As we
waited for a taxi the children sang to us and taught me a jumping game
to the amusement of the walkers. We clapped and jumped to a silent
beat, randomly sticking a leg out. I must have stuck out the right leg
at the right time as I apparently won.
We happened upon the same taxi as last time and again had the luxery
of our own seats until two young Peuhl men waved us down pointing at
their cow. We watched as the cow was hoisted into the empty trunk then
manipulated and tied like a pretzel so it couldn't do dammage. No
wonder the meat here is so tough! Some school girls walking home held
the trunk open and in return they got a ride to the next town.
As we sped along they started asking questions. Why don't you wear
jewelry? Often if there is a question of a childs gender we look for
the earrings that have peirced the girls ears from infancy. Clothes
here are not gender specific. Boys wear pink pants because pants are
for boys and they have no concept of pink being a girls colour. Why
don't you put braids in your hair? To their delight I let them touch
my hair as we discussed the difference between their hair and ours.
These girls were exceptionally different in appearance and manner
from the girls that the young Peuhl shepherd would be used to. Peuhl
women love bright clothes. Their unearthly jewelery and makeup is
something out of the National Geographic. Thick metal braids hang at
their temples from under a neon head scarf, pink paint dots the tips
of their noses and their high cheekbones, and bracelets climb to their
elbows. But their vibrant display of body art betrays their
personality. One day I wanted to ask one where she got her bright
material. As I approached she ran from me and hid behind the young man
she was with. The schoolgirls' unabashed curiosity stood out against
the often silent presence of a Peuhl woman.
Just as the hundreds of tribal languages in Benin rarely resemble
each other, each tribe has it's own character and it's own facial
scarring. Near Djougou the people are marked with three long slashes
on each cheek as if they've all survived fights with a wildcat. Other
tribes mark the forehead or temples. A tribe from the Atacora region
bears some 50 razor thin lines across the forehead and cheeks down to
the chin.
A seamstress with such markings asked me to take her to Canada but
was concerned that the people might not like her face. She told me
that she was the age of her hip height son (who bears no markings)
when it was done and remembers the pain. I cringed as I ran my fingers
over the barely there marks. She laughed when I let her touch the hair
on my arms, admittedly a poor exchange.
Although the call of a bustling city to the south is getting
stronger each day I find there is more and more that I enjoy about
this dried out north. Before we head south we will take our last trip
to Djougou, stopping in Natitingou with Medard and Serge to help them
install some furniture in their new bach.
Until next time... Alize
11.11.2009
Seventh Impressions
There are always people walking on the side of the road here. Whether it is a major road or the dirt track out to Dogué it seems these people walk endlessly under the sun. During our usually short wait for a taxi we feel the sun bake into our skin and our eyes hurt from squinting too much. These are little greivences compared to their hours of walking often with 30lbs or more balanced on their heads. We can always tell which town has the market long before we arrive because the number of walkers increases. Every day a different town has the market and people come from far and near to sell their goods.
Yesterday we took the harrowing journey on the dirt track to Dogué. When we stop at random villages to drop off or pick up parcels children come running and crowd around the vehicle to stare open mouthed at us. It doesn't help that I had my scarf wrapped 4 times around my head to control my dust intake. Often when we reach out to shake a hand the young ones scatter until an older child is brave enough to come. All the attention can be awkward especially when we are with the friends but it still makes me chuckle.
I have decided that I much prefer swerving around potholes than bouncing over them. Often goods fall out of the trunk or off the roof due to either or. When we stopped in the middle of nowhere to lift a matress from the dirt back onto the trunk I noticed a boy walking in the distance. We were miles from the last village and even the last hut! A few yards further a man crossed the track leaving wide footprints in the dust. Where are they going? What are they doing?
Today the taxi let us off across from a little Catholic church just outside of Sinahou. As he sputtered away we walked down the narrow path through a patch of millet growing high. Our contacts under the mango tree welcomed us again, bringing out wooden chairs for us while they sit on benches. When we're ready to go the children usually come to the road with us to wave down taxis. We followed them to a shady spot and sang Jesus Loves Me and asked questions about Jonah while we waited.
The 4th taxi was able to take us and Kaarina got the whole front seat to herself and I got the whooole back seat to MYself. That great luxery lasted a delightful 20some minutes until we picked up a few more passengers. There are a number of ways to identify if we've been in a particular taxi before. The pattern of cracks on the windsheild are never the same, whether they have rearview mirrors or not is another way, and we very well notice the cushion kindly placed in the centre console when we share the front seat.
We had a short break after arriving home from Sinahou before we took off on zemidjhan to study with some friends who don't get out to Wednesday pm study. As we visited a great wind blew dust through the house and the sky turned black. It didn't take us 2 minutes to say our goodbyes and we were off on zem again. Clouds were rolling in as the sun set and we flew across town hoping to miss the rain. Again I covered my face with my scarf as the wind threw billows of roadside dust in the air. At first glance I thought the spedometer was maxed out but rather it was sitting at zero, disabled.
One charming point about public transport is that your driver takes full responsibility to get you right to your destination. The ride may not be comfortable, safe, or remotely on schedule but you will get there. When the rain was too strong to continue we ducked under a shelter where a number of other people were stranded. We smiled at each other as we looked out from under the metal roof to see lightning flash across the sky. What else can you do?
For the record we made it home safe. Until next time... Alize
11.10.2009
Sixth Impressions
Last week we took our second trip to Djougou, this time leaving out the dirt track to Dogué but adding just as many miles in the opposite direction to visit Medard and Serge who are setting up a bach in Natitingou. We had some matresses etc for them and were glad for some worker fellowship. We spent the night in Natitingou, a tourist stopover where everything is located on the main road that runs through town. This made for good yovo (white person) spotting, which has become a game for me. I win if I can get them to smile at me.
Somehow the next day we happed upon undisputeably the slowest taxi in Benin. As we waited for more passengers the sickning sweet smell of unrefined gas wafted through the car. Gas tapped from lines in Nigeria is smuggled into Benin and sold cheap from glass bottles at haphazard stations that dot the roadsides. If the government were to outlaw this there simply wouldn't be enough gas to go around. We were soon underway only to find that the car wouldn't go more than 50km/h. Almost 2 hrs later than planned we arrived at our destination where two young men welcomed us.
Unfortunately after our meeting we found the taxi area empty except for the turtle and so we poked along to our next appointment. VERY unfortunately the turtle was just pulling out as we emerged from our second visit and we were stuck with him all the way back to Djougou. Every so often he would take his hand from the wildly vibrating wheel to lift the limp rearview mirror as vehicles approached and whizzed by.
For the first time since my arrival I heard a particularily talented Imam weaving his way through the call to prayer. A normally offkey, bored chant turned into a proud song that I decided was even more tasteful than the music blaring from the bar down the street. We often see men with teapots washing their face, hands and feet before entering a mosque. As I entered a leanto with a mat on the floor I noticed a teapot at the door and quietly slipped my sandals off as I had already been chastised once for walking on a prayer mat with my sandals on.
Our meetings continue to bring interest on Fridays and Sundays. Many who came to the first meetings at our bach haven't come recently but we are glad to have some new contacts filling the benches.
Until next time... Alize
9.21.2009
Some Benin Pictures
Doreen is using a typical broom over here. At the convention grounds.
This is the convention kitchen. Kaarina was cook for a few days and Yves is pictured helping.
Dorothy and our little friend Mebelia ate under a tree on cleanup day.
We see these kind of things all the time... Then they wonder why they have a broken axle?!
We see THESE all the time too... Sometimes in the house, but most of the time outside... They keep well hidden when inside.
8.25.2009
A First Taste
driver who loves his horn. We can't complain because he isn't blaring
horribly untasteful movies or music like we had on the way up.
Every day there is something new to face. There are cultural
things like the women not eating with the men which means our meal
visits are predominantly with the man of the home. And their clothes.
8 out of 10 women wear their bright African dress with different
headresses. I've been given a colourful flowing cotton "booboo" that
everyone wears around the house. Even to breakfast with the brothers
around. It's so nice and cool.
And the food. Carbs galore. Either rice, yams, cassava, potatoes,
or bread mostly with some kind if meat in a sauce. Last night we had
duck and lunch today was goat. We hardly ever get vegetables and they
are always cooked. Heat kills the bugs.
The mototaxi rides are a blast. They are a little more expensive
than a taxi but alot cooler bc of the air flow plus most taxis are
jammed with 4 ppl in the back and 2 in the front. My brother asked if
there are any African dirtbiking safaris in Benin. I figure that the
mototaxi is close enough. We go anywhere on them. The dirt roads are
pocked with pot holes and grooves from flowing rainwater that we
bounce over merrily. Recently we saw 4 girls on one moto. We stared
and laughed at them while they laughed and stared back at us. Us being
me and 6 girls from western Canada. I think they were sent from heaven
so that I don't miss my young sisters so much. Super fun and funny
girls. We went to a pool the other day and goofed off and got burnt
and screamed everytime we saw the huge spiders in the mango trees.
Like 30 humungoid scary things.
Animals run free everywhere. Downtown, in the yard, on the road
etc. Sometimes they aren't so free like when they're in the trunk, on
the back of a moto or in the baggage compartment of the bus like Billy
Goat, our guest today.
I couldn't begin to describe all the different sounds, smells and
sights that are so normal here but this is just a start.
for now there is no way to upload photos but at some point I might
figure it out. Until then...
8.13.2009
Kayaking the greasy Credit River
in rapids. There had been two massive downpours the days before we
went so the water line was up quite a bit. The only downside is that
this river runs right through the city. So you can imagine where all
that water was from. Eew. The rapids were mostly class one with the
occasional class two. Meaning a faceful of water going through rapids
taller than you when sitting in the yak. Neither of us rolled once.
Good thing bx neither of us have mastered the Eskimo roll. So this
wasn't near as crazy as the Ottawa River but a blast all the same. And
just 2 days before taking off for Benin! Andrew was leaving for the
east that afternoon. Nothing like spontaneous splashes.
8.05.2009
Twice they let us into the rapids without the boat. Pictured below is the scheduled "body surf." Jump into the water upstream, swim out a ways and let the water take you...
7.28.2009
Amonte Symphony Orchestra
I have a video that I call "Harmony Squared" but blogger isn't letting me upload it. Maybe that is for a reason... It is everything BUT harmony squared. We were shocked halfway through our gig when Martin and his sister wandered in... Why do guys always have to crash the party?
Strathroy 2009

6.21.2009
The Rest of Richmond
One day I was absolutely unmotivated. That was the day I was supposed to make 10 quiches to freeze and use conv. week. I procrastinated like mad. I painted the stairs with vigour, and was happy to help everyone else with any other job. Until I finally decided to get down to it at around 3pm. Supper soon rolled around and I didnt get into the job until closer to 7pm. Jean had just come back from catching a few little trout and was hanging around the kitchen so I enlisted him in the effort. I knew there had to be a flour sifter somewhere in the kitchen but had no clue where. Improvise!!
So here we are. Our prep crew. L>R - Jean, Jean, Elyse, Matoula, Gordie Lorraine, Jenelle, myself, Mimi, and Gilles. Matoula, Lorraine and Gilles are our older friends who come and help year upon year. Among such a young crew this year they were a great stability to us all.
5.15.2009
Preps have begun!!
Here we are at Richmond preps. After a 3 night stopover in Gordie's old stomping grounds we arrived Monday night. Everyone else was here already. We had a great drive with a few highlights... Here's one. We drove right over her!! Yurtle the Turtle.
Gordie's dad keeps bees. I have always wanted to see some hives so I braved the dull weather, although it was not a good bee day (they tend to be testy on rainy days) and went with him to see the bees. I was the smoker.
Smoke calms the bees. When I realized something was buzzing around in my skirt I was very glad that I had the smoker in my hand. Bees will land on you when you are close to a hive that is a fact... but they dont bite unless they are mad or squeezed... All very very interesting.
We have had some great days so far. Cook one day, clean the next, paint the next... There is a great view from where we have our nightly campfire. We cook supper on the fire rain or shine and then spend a little more time with some music or fellowship or whatever comes up.
We have a new dog around that we all love. She's smart. Sue is her name.
5.07.2009
Games people play
5.05.2009
Yay for productivity!!


4.26.2009
Easter Weekend Bliss
We went ice fishing!! This makes it look like the boys were doing all the work... In actual fact us girls did our share... We dug 6 holes through 3 ft of snow and ice... it took a while... and got us warmed up!!!
We relaxed waiting for the fish to bite!! We waited... and waited... and waited....
And got bored waiting so found a tube up at the camp and went tubing!!! We also ate a gourmet meal of hotdogs and sardines. (Not together)