Saturday, December 26th, 2009
Special meetings are upon us now. Last week we spent a few days working on visas for Benin, Togo and Nigeria, the last being the most memorable. I have heard many stories about Nigeria but this was my first experience. When we arrived at the Embassy we were given a form to fill out but were told we needed four copies. When there was no sign of him giving us three more copies Kaarina went on a trek to find a photocopier, returning 20 minutes later. After waiting 2 hours for the interviewer to arrive we were called for a 2 minute interview where we were told off for not stapling our photos to the form. WE were wasting HIS time! We got the visa. Welcome to Nigeria.
The border crossing went very smoothly. After the rough reception at the Nigerian Embassy I expected nothing less when we arrived in the country. I was warned about numerous police checks after crossing the border but our passports stayed safe in our pockets as armed and uniformed men waved us through some 20 stops on the way to Lagos. We decided that our taxi man had connections because this was not normal. He had put a shiny leather bag in the trunk just as we were leaving. At first we protested but maybe it was the shiny leather bag that sped up our journey.
Lagos is the most populous city of all Africa with some 20 million people sharing 300 square kilometers. As we entered the outskirts I was awed at the crowds of people milling on the side of the roads. The congested highways are full of dilapidated yellow buses packed full of people. A metal bar cuts into the ribs of the people standing at the door, the only thing to keep them from falling out. Often there's only a foot of space between vehicles and motorbikes speed through, their handlebars bent in so they can navigate the narrow spaces. Although things have quietened down for the holiday period there is still a definate hyperactivity that grips this city.
I am staying with the Amangala's on the outskirts of the city. Yesterday they hosted a meal for us visitors and a number of young friends home from university for the holidays. The daughter of the home laughed at me as a waft of hot pepper coming from her pot made me cough. The sauce made here has a different taste than in Benin. Similar to some tastes that come from the West Indies.
The electricity is off more than it is on. A big generator chugs away most of the day to provide this comfortable home with power. Otherwise beads of sweat drip down our temples as we visit. In the north water is often cut as well. It seems that the hardships in this country surpass what we know in Benin.
Yet this country is far more developed than Benin. Oil has brought foreign money into the country. Beside the crumpled minibuses men in tailored suits drive shiny SUVs. Fastfood restaurants are more common here although MacDonald's hasn't arrived. When I arrived in Benin I was told that I would likely not see a mall during my stay here. Today some of the young friends took me to Victoria Island's secret, a big airconditioned shopping mall. Packed full of people dressed to impress. It even had a coffee shop!!
Now we are preparing for the meetings tomorrow. It looks like some 50 people could fit into the yard where it will be held. It has been such a pleasure to be immersed in English, albeit hard to understand and mixed with Pidgen. Nigeria has a reputation for corruption, kidnappings, and being overpopulated among other things but my experience has betrayed that reputation and left me with a smile.
Next stop: Togo. Until then. Alize
